Backroad Portfolio

Backroad Portfolio

AT Hiking Tips, the Great Dismal Swamp, and the Channels Natural Area

Plus, making chicken-and-dumplings and a Fauquier County landscape

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Backroad Portfolio
Apr 30, 2026
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The hike to McAfee’s Knob via the Appalachian Trail in Virginia; photo by Elizabeth Poland Shugg

We’re heading to Virginia this week, starting with the final installment of our Appalachian Trail hiking story, then making our way to the Great Dismal Swamp on the Virginia-North Carolina border. We’ll stop by the Channels Natural Area Preserve in Saltville, then visit Galax for a chicken-and-dumplings cooking workshop. Join us on the backroads!


Committing to the Climb, Part 3

We’re starting off this week’s email with our final installment of Ron and Kelly Gaulden’s Appalachian Trail thru-hiking story. The series concludes with their lessons learned, gear recommendations, and trail tips.

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The Great Dismal Swamp historical marker and photo of the swamp canal by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, courtesy of Wikimedia CommonsThe Great Dismal Swamp historical marker and photo of the swamp canal by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
The Great Dismal Swamp historical marker and photo of the swamp canal by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

Swamp Settlements

Virginia and North Carolina

The Great Dismal Swamp hides remnants of maroon communities—self-governing settlements formed by escaped enslaved people during the 1700s and 1800s who took refuge in the dense, mosquito-infested wilderness. Archaeologists have discovered cabin footprints, white clay tobacco pipe fragments, lead shot, gunflints, pottery shards, reworked Native American arrowheads repurposed as tools, and more. Largely unexplored, the swamp that once covered more than a million acres is now a 113,000-acre National Wildlife Refuge straddling southeastern Virginia and northeastern North Carolina. Its trails allow glimpses into a long-lost chapter of American survival and defiance.


Photo of the Channels Natural Area Preserve by Ganesha811, courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

The Channels Natural Area Preserve

Brumley Gap Road or Hayters Gap Road
Saltville, Virginia

The Channels Natural Area Preserve protects a 721-acre site atop Clinch Mountain in Southwest Virginia, featuring the Great Channels of Virginia. This unique 400-million-year-old sandstone outcropping has eroded into a maze of deep crevices, narrow slot canyons, towering boulders, and rock formations resembling a natural labyrinth. Hikers access it via moderate-to-strenuous trails like the Brumley Mountain Trail or Channels Trail, leading to stunning 360-degree views. There are no facilities and only about ten parking spots available. Use 4250 Hayters Gap Road, Saltville, Virginia 24370 for GPS directions.


Southern-style Chicken and Dumplings; photo by Jeffrey W., courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

Making Chicken and Dumplings

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